Trench Coat by Gamage
(The Stars and Stripes, 1918)
Comprising the latest improvements for overseas -The Trench Coat ‘De Luxe’!
U.S. Army Uniforms of World War One
Trench Coat by Tunmer
(The Stars and Stripes, 1918)
The raglan sleeve, gaberdine trench coat made by Tunmer was yet another of the many choices made available to the officers of the Entent Cordiale.
Trench Coat by Barker
(The Stars and Stripes, 1918)
Yet another action-posed advertisement for an officer’s private purchase trench coat. The Great Military Outfitter, John Barker and Company, stepped up to the plate during the crises of 1914 and began to produce the famous ‘Kenbar’ trench coat:
Every detail so necessary for the most strenuous wear in the trenches is embodied in this excellent coat. The collar can be worn in four positions. The sleeves are made with reinforced elbows, and the skirt is cut full and fitted with cavalry gusset.
Trench Coat by Hitchinbrook
(Army and Navy Stores, 1918)
Similar to the coat worn by English officers. Cut very full presenting an unusual swagger effect. Made of double texture, tan cashmere with twill lining. An extra, detachable, fleece interlining affords further protection against the cold… Full belt with slide buckle, and belt rings to which accessories may be attached. Absolutely waterproof. 48 inches in length.
One of the First Trench Coats for U.S. Civilians
(Magazine Ad, 1917)
No doubt, the fashionable minds who sat so comfortably in America, far removed from the dung and destruction of the European war, would thumb through magazines such as Leslie’s, Collier’s or Current History looking for fashion’s newest thing. How pleased these fops must have been that the ink-stained photogravure boys didn’t let them down! The Brothers Guiterman in Minnesota must have been numbered among these macaronis because they seemed to have been the first to begin production of a trench coat intended solely for civilian production (although it must be remembered that during the war, trench coats were a private purchase item, available only to officers sold only by haberdashers and privately-owned military furnishing establishments).
A Trench Coat by Thresher and Glenny
(The Stars and Stripes, 1918)
Let the word go out here and now to all stylists and fashion journalists as well as all the other assorted fops who like to play fast and loose with the language; we know who you are and we know your game. The term trench coat will not suffer the same abuse as the word Martini. Both have clear, lucid definitions; there can be no such thing as a chocolate Martini and those actors in the movie The Matrix were not wearing trench coats (they were wearing frocks). A quick waltz through this section illustrates well the characteristics shared by all Great War trench coats: they were double-breasted (although it is said single-breasted did exist), they must be belted, and they must be cut like a sac, and they must have wrist-straps. Raglan sleeves, storm patches and billows pockets were all optional -and most important: there were NO D rings, those were added later.
Three Articles on the Old Campaign Hat
(The Stars and Stripes, 1918 – 1919)
These three articles from THE STARS AND STRIPES of W.W. I reported on the U.S. Army Campaign hat which was a well-loved uniform item and most Doughboys were pretty choked-up to see that it was going to be replaced by a piece of millinery as slovenly as the overseas cap.
Replacing American Combat Uniforms
(The Official Record, 1922)
The World War I American uniform data attached herein answers the question as to how often Doughboy uniforms would wear out and need replacing. This information was all transcribed by U.S. Army Quartermaster Corps and published in a book titled THE OFFICIAL RECORD OF THE UNITED STATES IN THE WORLD WAR (1922).
Doughboy Uniforms: Breeches vs. Long Pants
(The Stars and Stripes, 1919)
It has officially been decided that the A.E.F. has grown up and must now wear pants.
A 1919 order appeared in THE STARS and STRIPES indicating that the era of army-issued olive drab knee breeches had passed and soon all American Army personnel would be issued long pants:
Experts have decided that the breeches legs shrink when wet and impede the circulation, and it is assured that the kind that he used to wear in civilian life will not cause the Doughboy cold feet…
To supply the A.E.F. until August, 2,500,000 pairs of pants have been ordered, and these, which will cost only nineteen cents a leg more than breeches did, will be of better quality than the latter.
A New Uniform Regulation for the NCOs of the A.E.F.
(Stars and Stripes, 1918)
In an attempt to save money, the U.S. Army issued an order that N.C.O.s were to wear chevrons on one arm only.
The Uniform Changes for 1919
(The Stars and Stripes, 1918)
Brief, understated descriptions of Army issued uniform items; such as the new blouses, slickers, gloves, mittens, breeches and mufflers.
The Tailoring System for U.S. Officers
(The Stars and Stripes, 1918)
This U.S. Army uniform regulation announced in the September 13th, 1918 issue of THE STARS and STRIPES helped to put British, French (and later German) tailors to work on the uniforms of U.S. officers:
According to this plan, each Quartermaster depot will have a tailoring system through which the officer can buy his cloth and then be fitted and outfitted on the spot. At each depot, civilian labor will be contracted and the officer need pay for only his share of the labor cost.
Two Khaki Shirt Advertisements
(The Stars and Stripes, 1918)
Black and white illustrations showing the types of private purchase shirting available to the members of the A.E.F. who were willing to pay for such foppery.
These particular items were British made and the ads depict two jocular Tommies.
The New Thing for 1919: Water-Proof Footwear and Long Trousers
(The Stars and Stripes, 1918)
Around the middle of 1918, the American Quartermasters began to think that their supply depots should actually be stocked with uniform items that were capable of providing some degree of warmth and comfort in the French winters, and so they dreamed-up the uniform elements described herein. For those who have some knowledge of American WW I uniforms it will be easy to recognize upon reading this article that most of these items were never made (except for the long pants).
A Puttee Advertisement
(Stars and Stripes, 1918)
The canvas leggings worn by the A.E.F. (as ordered in the American Army Uniform Regulations of 1912) were simply dandy for duties on the dry prairies of the United States, but soon proved impractical in the damp and rainy climate of France and Belgium. Shortly after their arrival in France the U.S. Army replaced their leggings with the wool puttees worn by their European Allies. In May of 1919 they were adopted for use by the entire Army.
Clothing for Aviators
(Sears and Roebuck, 1918)
Two pages from the Sears Military Equipment catalog of 1918; these were flight-clothing items offered for military or private purchase during a time when aviation was oddly saturated with equestrian pretensions.
An Advertisement for Officer’s Ankle Boots
(Stars and Stripes, 1918)
Some A.E.F. officers realized that industrial war would not provide them with an opportunity for horseback riding and they wisely chose alternative footwear more suited to the discomfort of living in the damp trenches of France.
An Underwear Advertisement
(Stars and Stripes, 1918)
The attached ad makes it quite clear that the American Army was not without its innovators: the Germans may have introduced poison gas, the British may have introduced the tank but it was the Americans who added Chamois Leather Underwear to the arsenal of industrial warfare.